Dienstag, 9. März 2010

The wheel of life (...never ends) Fb. 7c bloc

I could finish a long time boulder project at a beautiful and remote place in the middle of the swabian alb, where a small river circles through small valley which is called "eselsburger tal". The boulder is something special in many ways for me. As I found the block in fall 2006 I wasn't able to climb one move, but I've seen some holds which make me believe that it would be possible to climb this line in the future and I wanted to dedicate this beautiful line to my mother, which sadly died on her 50th birthday due to brain cancer. Another thing that was clear to me has been, that if I would ever climb this boulder, it would be a step further in improving my climbing. So I began to figure out the moves and sequences through this 6 meter long line. After trying the boulder for three and a half years now, the yearned first ascend is one move away. On last saturday 6th of march 2010 the conditions have been almost perfect. The temperature was six degress below zero, the wind was blowing heavily and the sun was shining. The only problem was, that the winter has been returned to Germany and dropped during the night about 30 centimeters of snow. The sun began to melt the snow on the last important hold. First I was not happy about the situation, but then during a prior try I discovered a "new" hold which I've never recognized in that way before. Then I took a short break to refill my battery. Then minutes later I was sitting at the sit start, put my hands out of the chalk bag, took a deep breath and put my fingers on the cold rock. Then the movie starts, first cross move to a big jug, the second hand follows into a undercling, a far move to a small crimp follows with the left, placing a heel hook with the right and pulling another far move to a good pinch. The feet swing out, normally the swing takes a lot of power, but not this time...now the feet are back on track, a new heel hook with the left follows, then two moves with midsized crimps following and then the final crux, a jump to a really bad sloper, the left hand matches to the right, step right with the foot and then catch the crimp, set up the left foot very high and pull up to the final jug and top out. My whole body was shaking and I was endless happy and surprised, because a few minutes before I thought that I make it because of the wet key hold at the top. The ascend was so fast and I did not felt pumped on the top. For me, even this wouldn't be my first ascend, this is sure the most beautiful line in that valley, even of the swabian alb as far as I know either it isn't the hardest. My suggestion is Fb. 7c bloc. I hope that it'll be repeated soon. Now I'm searching for new lines and try to push much harder as before. I'll try to add a few photos of this line in the next days.

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